Category Archives: Goa

Prelude to a bullfight. Dhirio is the Konkani term for bullfights (bull-on-bull), a much-loved traditional sport in Goa. Although it is now banned by law, the practice continues surreptitiously. These days the duel often begins in the wee hours of the morning so that the policemen charged with preventing the fight can also place their […]

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Outdoors on a monsoon morning in Goa. Among the benisons of my young days were the open spaces the minute one walked out of the home. Those spaces have now been thoughtlessly filled with ugly concrete. Panjim, once possessing of great charm and beauty, has been transformed into just another Indian town, a sorry pile […]

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A seasonal delicacy. For about two weeks at the beginning of August every year, clusters of villagers dot the Goan roadside hawking handpicked mushrooms known in Konkani as olmi. These edible mushrooms grow in the wild near termite mounds in the forested hills of rural Goa. Taxonomically they come under Termitomyces. The narrow window of […]

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Goa’s state animal. We were in a forest clearing near the remote Goan village of Surla (Sattari) in the Western Sahyadri range when this bull sauntered across startling us. The endangered Gaur is the largest bovine on the planet, larger than Africa’s Cape Buffalo. It is called govo redo in Konkani. My first instinct was […]

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