
Breakfast this morning was at the tiny Café Shubham in the beautiful coastal village of Morjim in north Goa. Bhaji-Pão-Chao: Rs 14 ($0.28). Taste, Service & Warmth: Priceless.

The mere mention of jackfruit stirs fond childhood memories of Goan summers. The baby jackfruit meant breakfast to us brats unshackled from the tyranny of the school year. You slit the fruit open with your hands, scooped up the fleshy nuggets and then spat out the seed. The Konkani word for jackfruit is the same…

In one short verse, the great Goan poet Bakibab Borkar (1910-1984) captured the essence of what it means to be Goan1: Please Sir, God of Death Don’t make it my turn today, not today There’s fish curry for dinner. [1] Great Goans by Mario Cabral e Sa and Lourdes Bravo Da Costa, N.N.A.P. Publications, 1991….

This is Part 2 of the conspectus on the cafés of Panjim. The first installment outlined the city’s café culture and covered the iconic Café Central. Here we survey the pioneering houses of the genre that are still active and thriving. The menu at all these cafés has much in common. They distinguish themselves by…

This is the first installment of a 2-part series. The cafés of Panjim are part of its living heritage and inspire deep affection from its residents. Although called cafés, they are nothing like their counterparts in Europe. These are modest eating houses that serve breakfast and small meals throughout the day, and where the beverage…