This installment of Panjim Promenade puts the spotlight on Tobacco Square (Largo do Estanco in Portuguese). The Tobacco Square is bounded by the General Post Office, the São Tomé chapel and Casa da Moeda. What is now the General Post Office originally started out as a depot for trading tobacco whence the name of the…
The mere mention of jackfruit stirs fond childhood memories of Goan summers. The baby jackfruit meant breakfast to us brats unshackled from the tyranny of the school year. You slit the fruit open with your hands, scooped up the fleshy nuggets and then spat out the seed. The Konkani word for jackfruit is the same…
This is Part 2 of the conspectus on the cafés of Panjim. The first installment outlined the city’s café culture and covered the iconic Café Central. Here we survey the pioneering houses of the genre that are still active and thriving. The menu at all these cafés has much in common. They distinguish themselves by…
These are images of Nirmalabai Jadhav made one late evening in Korgaon in north Goa. She was crossing the village square when I first noticed her. When I went up and asked if she would agree to a portrait, she was moved to tears.
As soon as I saw the figure of Mahadeo Bali one evening in Korgaon, I knew that I had a great subject for a portrait. The first image below is a candid, moments before he saw me with the lens pointed at him. There is something very Goan about him. Men of this manner and…
