Reis Magos

The village of Reis Magos in Goa‘s Bardez taluka is exquisitely located on the waterline across the bay from Panjim, and is named after the three biblical Magi Kings. Among its treasures are the eponymous church and fort.

The beautiful Church of Reis Magos, built in 1555, is among Goa‘s oldest. Symbols in bas relief around the steps leading up reveal the existence of an earlier Hindu temple at the site. The handsome east-facing façade must be seen in the warm glow of the rising sun (first image below). The annual feast at the church in the first week of January is an important event in the Goan calendar.

The Reis Magos Fort was built by the Portuguese in 1551 soon after their conquest of Bardez and later revitalized in 1703. When the Marathas took over Bardez in 1739, the Portuguese used the redoubts of Reis Magos and Aguada to barely hold on.

The archival photo adduced below discloses the glorious setting. Too bad the barbarians are now at the door, shovels in hand and trucks of concrete in tow.

Church of Reis Magos, Goa

Church of Reis Magos, Goa
5D, 35L

 
The church seen from Reis Magos fort

Seen from Reis Magos fort
5D, 24-105L

 
Early morning worship

Devotion
5D, 24-105L

 
Reis Magos fort - first rays of the sun

Reis Magos Fort - first rays of the sun
5D, 24-105L

 
Sketch by Mario Miranda

Art by Mario Miranda
Reproduced with permission of the Mario Gallery

 
Reis Magos church and fort c. 1900

Reis Magos Church and Fort c. 1900
© Souza & Paul (Central Library Archives)

 
 
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Bridge to the Heavens

A Northern Lights display on a cold night at the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river in north Iceland. See an earlier post for another assay.

Colourful skies at Jökulsá á Fjöllum in north Iceland

Northern Lights at Jökulsá á Fjöllum in north Iceland
5D Mark II, 14L II

 
 
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ArunJanuary 23, 2012 - 4:27 pm

There has to be a song that goes with the photograph.

Thomas PindelskiJanuary 23, 2012 - 5:40 pm

The lighting on the bridge is magic.

BorkurJanuary 23, 2012 - 7:19 pm

The ,,great Northern lights Emperor” gives you his blessings !

Saptakoteshwar of Naroa

Legend has it that a group of sages on the island of Divar in Goa undertook penance to propitiate Shiva. It took seven crore (sapta-kot) years for the Great Yogi to take notice of their exertions. When He finally showed up, the sages petitioned Him to take up residence in the village of Naroa (also called Narve). Thus came about the great temple of Saptakoteshwar in Naroa-Divar, one that enjoys a special place in the Goan psyche for its singular role in our land’s turbulent history.

Saptakoteshwar weathered intrusions first by the Bahmani sultans, and later by the Portuguese who destroyed it. The first mass conversion of Goan Hindus to Christianity took place here on August 15, 1560, cleverly engineered by the Portuguese on the day of Gokulashtami, traditionally the most important celebration at the temple. The provenance of one of Goa‘s popular folk tunes, Hanv Saiba poltodi vaita, can be traced to this event.

At the original temple site in Naroa-Divar today stands the Chapel of Our Lady of Candelaria, and nearby lie the remains of the temple tank. The ancient linga has its own tale of woes to tell, even serving as a pulley for a nearby well. Finally it made its way across the river to be reinstalled at a new site which came to be known as New Naroa, today’s Narve in Bicholim taluka. The temple was restored by Shivaji in 1668.

Saptakoteshwar Temple at Narve, Goa

Saptakoteshwar Temple at Narve, Goa
5D, 24-105L

 
Saptakoteshwar

Saptakoteshwar
5D, 24-105L

 
By Mario Miranda

Saptakoteshwar Temple by Mario Miranda
(Reproduced with permission of the Mario Gallery)

 
Temple musician Dattaram Ramkrishna Narvekar

Temple musician Dattaram Ramkrishna Narvekar
5D, 24-105L

 
 
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venantius j pintoJanuary 20, 2012 - 10:48 pm

Splendid color scheme, and like the florescence in the chrome orange. A thought on color: It would be a vision if they could manage to keep the tiles pretty consistently Indian red, or a dark laterite brown.

jcJanuary 21, 2012 - 8:43 am

Once again RP, Thank you for sharing this with us. Pic 2 is really brilliant (to me at least) as it brings out the nostalgic emotions of one who is utterly disgusted by the monstrous concretization which is now taking place in Goa.

ArunJanuary 21, 2012 - 9:24 am

I thought Shiva was easier to propitiate than that!

Death Valley – A Study in Texture

These photographs were taken in a single session along Badwater Road in the Death Valley National Park in California. An impending storm had given rise to conditions atypical in Death Valley – soft, diffused afternoon light that accentuated the colours on the Black Mountains.

Black Mountains colours

Colours
5D Mark II, 24-105L

 
Black Mountains along Badwater Road

Black Mountains
5D Mark II, 24-105L

 
Colour palette

Palette
5D Mark II, TS-E 17L

 
Folds

Folds
5D Mark II, 24-105L

 
Rugged

Rugged
5D Mark II, 70-200L f/2.8 IS II

 
Black Mountains

Black Mountains
5D Mark II, 24-105L

 
Warm light

Glow
5D Mark II, 24-105L

 
 
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Thomas PindelskiJanuary 19, 2012 - 7:13 pm

One of my favorite places on earth and you have done it great justice in your pictures. I recall being in the Visitors’ Center when it was 131F.

Rod Edwards has a superb QTVR rendering of the Race Track (Flash) here:

http://pindelski.org/Photography/2009/06/08/the-race-track-improved/

Ruins of Nossa Senhora de Saúde

The Church of Nossa Senhora de Saúde (Our Lady of Health) in the village of Sancoale, Goa, was built in 1606 and destroyed in a fire in 1834. All that remains today is the shell of its façade. It enjoys a delightful setting by the Zuari river, and the ruins provide clues to what must have been a magnificent edifice.

I photographed the site several times over a number of years. The first image below was taken handheld on a dark monsoon morning from the bridge across the Zuari river.

Nossa Senhora de Saúde at Sancoale, Goa

Nossa Senhora de Saúde at Sancoale, Goa
5D, 300L f/4 IS

 
First rays of the rising sun

First rays of the rising sun
5D, 300L f/4 IS

 
The shell

The remains
5D Mark II, TS-E 24L II

 
The ruins

Ruins of Nossa Senhora de Saúde
5D Mark II, Zeiss ZE 50 f/2 MP

 
Frontispiece

Frontispiece
5D, 24-105L

 
 
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