A salient characteristic of the old temples and churches in Goa is their location – many are ensconced in exquisite surroundings. This shrine in the remote village of Maangaal (also spelled Mangal) in Goa‘s Quepem taluka sits in the middle of a cultivated paddy field.

I meandered into this luscious setting on an atmospheric monsoon morning this July. The shrine is dedicated to what are known as the Paik gods, subsidiary Hindu deities depicted as swordsmen on horses. The Paiks are worshipped by the Velip tribe common to these parts. Notice the terraced field in the foreground of the first image.

Rural shrine in Maangaal, Goa
5D Mark II, Zeiss ZE 50 f/2 Makro Planar

Shrine in the middle of the paddy field
5D Mark II, Zeiss ZE 50 f/2 Makro Planar

Disporting through the Goan countryside on a classic monsoon afternoon is one of life’s glorious pleasures. These images were made earlier today.

Lush fields in Dhargal, Goa
5D Mark II, Zeiss ZE 100 f/2 Makro Planar

Master class of green in Porvorim
5D Mark II, Zeiss ZE 100 f/2 Makro Planar

I have a good recollection of the Goan gentry of my young days, of their modes of dress, speech and mannerisms, of the old world charm, adapted from the Portuguese and synthesized into a uniquely Goan composite. That kind of codger is today a rare sight in Panjim. Likewise, the hardy Goan of the working class has been transformed by the times although a few still cling to the old ways – but surely not for long – even as their grandchildren conquer the new worlds of Facebook and Twitter.

These images were made while waiting for a sunset shoot in the village of Saligao. The 300mm telephoto lens enabled enough separation from the men for a candid shot. The mellow orange of the late evening sun was a bonus. As is my wont, I try to engage my subjects once the photographs are secure in my bag.

Julio Rodrigues wearing his loincloth (in Goa, called the caxtti) was returning with bags of livestock feed. For a tinge of nostalgia, notice the Hercules logo on his old bicycle. In the second image we see Jagannath Morajkar trudging home after an honest day’s work. There is something very Goan to their look, and soon sights like these will exist only in our memory.

On the way home: Julio Rodrigues
5D Mark II, 300L f/4 IS

Day's end: Jagannath Morajkar
5D Mark II, 300L f/4 IS

Jagannath Morajkar
5D Mark II, 70-200L f/2.8 IS

Merry Christmas to all readers.

Socorro here refers to the village in Bardez, Goa, not the town in New Mexico, USA (site of the Very Large Array).

The Church of Nossa Senhora do Socorro was built in 1763, and is ensconced in serene, picturesque surroundings. Its annual feast is celebrated every year on November 21. There are 4 altars inside, the main one dedicated to Our Lady of Socorro. Architectural highlights of the edifice are summarized below.

Photographing the main altar presented a challenge. With natural light filtering in from only one side, the illumination was asymmetric. The artificial lighting in the interior was likewise patchy. I bracketed a set of exposures with the expectation that at least one would be optimal enough to withstand post-processing work to even out the tones.

Without the superb Canon Tilt-Shift 17mm lens, single exposure takes like the first two images below would not have been possible.

Church of Nossa Senhora do Socorro (1763) in Socorro, Goa
5D Mark II, TS-E 17L

Main altar at Socorro
5D Mark II, TS-E 17L

Shrine to Mary outside Socorro church
5D Mark II, 24-105L

Siridona is a small fishing village in Goa, by the bay where the Zuari river drains into the Arabian Sea. It is spelled variously as Siridão and Shirdona. This photo essay recalls a quiet evening that my father and I spent there in early 2008. The village folk were out and about, some digging for clams, others returning from an afternoon out at sea.

Late evening in Siridona, Goa
5D, 24-105L

Mining clams
5D, 24-105L

Sorting through the haul
5D, 24-105L

Catch of the day
5D, 24-105L

My father, Motilal Parrikar, enjoying the calm
5D, 24-105L

Sundown: time to douse the glim
5D, 24-105L

I spent an evening recently in the charming village of Moira, once celebrated throughout Goa for its delectable variety of bananas. The primary purpose of my visit was to photograph the imposing village church.

The Church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception serves as a focal point for the community’s spiritual and cultural life. Built around 1619, it is conceived in the Mannerist Neo-Roman style and features a cupoliform façade. (vide The Parish Churches of Goa by José Lourenço, Amazing Goa Publications, 2006.)

Before the arrival of the Portuguese a Shiva temple stood at this site. The German researcher Dr. Gritli Mitterwallner writes in her essay titled The Hindu Past – Structure and Architecture, published in Goa – Cultural Patterns (Marg Publications, 1983):

The following exquisite scene presented itself a little before sundown.

Church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception at Moira, Goa
5D Mark II, 24-105L

I was hoping to frame the church façade against the cobalt blue sky – a tiny window available moments before the onset of complete darkness. But in Goa the best plans can go awry. As I waited in anticipation, a neon lamp operated by the Electricity dept came to life imprinting on one flank of the church the shadow of an intermediate tree, as seen below.

Moira church after sunset
5D Mark II, TS-E 17L

Sign outside Moira church
5D Mark II, 24-105L